I can’t quite believe it has arrived, but my time in Chad
has come to an end! It has been an incredible four years with many highs and lows,
surprises and challenges along the way. In a word, it’s been a ChAdventure!
Here, in no particular order, are just some of my most memorable moments….
Guinebor II
Working
at Guinebor hospital has been a real privilege. It’s been hard, challenging
wonderful, frustrating, encouraging, sad, a joy… a whole mix of emotions and
experiences. It’s been fantastic working alongside the Chadian staff, watching
them develop in their skills and knowledge as nurses, but also to build up good
relationships with them along the way. And at the same time, develop my own
skills as a nurse too.
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One of my little patients awaiting major
abdominal surgery |
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Neonatal resuscitation training with
nurses and midwives |
Due to the nature of the hospital, the clinical work has
just been one part of everyday life here. Some of the more bizarre moments
include finding myself giving gardening lessons to the guards who wanted to
prune the trees, towing the ambulance out of the thick mud in which it got
stuck while trying to pull out another vehicle, or chasing away various members
of the animal kingdom from the wards, lizards, cats, spiders, birds, without a
second thought. I also come away from this place, knowing far more about
generators than I really think is necessary.
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Rescuing the ambulance |
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Gardening lessons |
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Mariam vaccinating |
It wasn’t something that I foresaw as being my role when I came
to Chad, but other than working with the nurses, the majority of my time at
Guinebor has been developing the malnutrition and child services the hospital
offers. All children under the age of 5 are now measured and weighed to assess
their nutritional status, there is new clinic, run by Mariam, devoted to
following up malnourished children, providing health promotion, free nutritious
food and vaccinations for all. While the inpatient treatment and care for
children admitted with severe acute malnutrition has improved. This project has
been a huge learning curve for me, but working with these children, their
parents and especially Mariam has been my greatest joy here in Chad. To see
such sick children become well is just incredible.
Here are just some of the children treated and helped through the malnutrition project....
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Khadidja Youssef Moustapha \Baby Rebecca Twins, Zakira and Zena |
Friends and Family
The hardest thing for me to leave behind in the UK when I came to Chad were my
family and friends. And yet, in coming here I have found my Chadian family and
friends (cheesy but true!).
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With Mama |
In my first few weeks in Chad, living on my own in a noisy
neighbourhood in town, I was determined not to be trapped within the four walls
of my flat. So, each evening at 4pm, I forced myself to go for a walk around
the block, and I hated it. It was hot and dusty, I fought with my newly
acquired head scarf, trying to keep it in place, I passed men who hissed and
whistled at me, all in the desperate hope that someone would speak to me and
not just eye me with suspicion before turning away. Eventually I heard the
words I’d been longing to hear “Bonsoir, ma fille”. That was all the
encouragement I needed; off I went traversing the dusty rutted track,
negotiating the thick green slime of the open sewer, to sit down with the round
and kind faced old woman with swollen painful and immobile knees, who I now
call “Mama”. Her daughter in law, Felicity and her three granddaughters, Mya,
Joanna and Paulette are now my Chadian family.
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Visiting Felicity, Mya, Jo and Paulette |
During my time in Chad I've also met many people from around the world and have made some very close friendships. Just one of these friendships was
with Claire who ended up sharing my house while she worked for 9 months as a
Pharmacist in the hospital. Games nights, singing 90’s classics in the kitchen,
doing gardening (well, a form of) in “sack” dresses and flip flops, escaping
into town for ice-cream when it all became too much are just some of our
memorable moments.
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Creating culinary delights with Claire |
But there have also been some incredibly significant and
precious visits from the UK: my Mum and friend Louise. I didn’t realise until
they came, Mum in my first year and Louise in my second, how much I missed
having people who knew me so well and their presence highlighted to me how
different my life had become, how what was now ‘normal’ to me, hadn’t always
been. Both of their visits were highlights for me and I still can’t believe they
actually came!
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Fun with Louise |
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With Mum at Elephant Rock |
Getting creative
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Celebrating Thanksgiving with American friends |
With very little available here to offer any kind of distraction, to survive, it
is essential to make your own entertainment. This may come in the form of the
greatly exciting “Guess the 10 fruits in the 10 fruit cocktail juice” game that
Claire and myself developed on one particularly exhilarating Saturday breakfast,
or temporarily taking on another’s cultural identity for a few hours to
celebrate their national holiday, such as Thanksgiving. Basically, recreating,
or creating, any celebration with a Chadian twist, usually revolving around
food where the hard work in searching and the excitement in finding or creating
an alternative adds to the air of anticipation! Having said that, one of my
best Christmas celebrations here didn’t involve food at all, but certainly did
offer a very Chadian twist- camel riding on Christmas Eve! Across the dry, dusty
golf course…. Like you do…..
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Camel riding across the golf course |
Celebrating Chad style
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Celebrating with the staff wearing the hospital's official fete materiel |
One of the highlights of being in
any different culture is to be a part of the fĂȘtes, and with the Chadian
tendency to take even the slightest excuse to celebrate, there have been many
to be a part of here. Of course there have been the obvious celebrations;
weddings, baby naming ceremonies, engagement parties, where bargaining in high
spirits for the bride price provides great hollers of laughter and fun. But
there have also been the ones that, at least to me initially, seemed a little
more bizarre, such as the shipping container opening ceremonies.
While less jovial, being a part of funerals and offering
condolences to people have offered a precious insight into the Chadian culture
and provided a great opportunity to come alongside and identify with those I
have lived and worked with.
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Rose receiving her wedding presents |
Time to Explore
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Walking in the footsteps of elephants |
Having said there is a limit on what is on offer in ways of
distraction and tourist attractions, I have taken two holidays in Chad, which
were fantastic. The first was flying across Chad to the far east side to a
national park called Zakouma, which has to be the least visited national park in
Africa. It was beautiful with most of the cast of the Lion King appearing, and
yet, due to the lack of tourists and rules, frequent stops and going for a walk
alongside crocodile infested waters, and lion roaming country added to the
excitement!
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At Zakouma Park |
My second holiday was also to the east of Chad, but rather than
a couple of hours flight I took the 12 hour bus option! Not nearly as
comfortable or easy, but certainly more interesting! I went to visit some close
friends and enjoyed a fantastic week of relaxation, visiting neighbours, going
for walks and picnics along a dried wadi and excursions to the market.
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Am Timan market |
What’s in a name?
In the UK, I go by a number of different names; Rebecca, Becky, Becca, Bex. But here, I can add a few more to that list:
Nasara- It took me all of a day having
arrived in Chad to realise that local children were pointing at me while
shouting “Nasara, nasara”. This term meaning ‘white person’ in Arabic I didn’t particularly
relish at first but was soon reassured that it was not meant as an insult, more
one of recognition and description.
Rebecca Jolie- This is the latest one I can add
having seen it just this week on Felicity’s phone. Very sweet, if a little
generous!
La mere des enfants- The Mother of the children. This
was a name I was frequently given by the relatives of patients when I worked on
the paediatric ward, especially with the malnourished children. Because many of
these children would spend a long time on the ward, they often got over their
initial terror of a white woman as I spent time helping the mothers give the
milk and the other cares they needed. It was an honour as well as humbling to
be given such a name.
But my favourite? Madam
Guinebor- As I get out of my car at various places around town, this is
frequently shouted to me, along with a greeting and questions on how the
hospital was going, often from people I don’t recognise at all. I assumed this
was simply in response to me driving a car with the hospital’s name on it, but
there have been a few times when I’ve been in town in a plain car and the same
thing has happened, “Madame Guinebor, Madame Guinebor”!!
Random acts of
kindness- from free
truck rides when stranded, assistance changing tyres or being pushed off the
middle of a chaotic roundabout when the car has decided once again that this
would be the perfect time and place to breakdown, invitations to join patients
and relative in drinking tea on their mat, towing me out of mud when stuck
(after standing laughing and pointing for a while first!), receiving a gift, I could go on… These are just example of some of
the random acts of kindness that I have received here that have come at the
least expected time and have brought me great pleasure.
Culinary delights- Grasshoppers, goat, camel,
undistinguishable meat, gombo sauce (slimy boiled okra), boule (flour and water
mixed to form a solid paste), quisa (big spongey pancakes), kakanje (flower
used to make a sweet juice or I cooking), capitane (white fish), mangoes…. Just
some of the delights I’ve eaten here, some more desirable than others!
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Grasshoppers, a local delicacy(?) |
Everyday life
With climbing temperatures, unpredictable driving, thick dust or oozing mud, or overheating fridges, the list could go on and on. But suffice to say, these are just a few of my highlights and significant aspects of life over the past four years, in what can only be called, a
ChAdventure!